A Travellerspoint blog

最受欢迎的节目

昨晚有模特大赛,冬日寂寞的国色天香也热闹了一晚。音乐、哨声、欢呼,从开着的顶棚蹦出来,音量丝毫不减地直往我们耳里钻。

那晚是我第一次看到热腾。夜色中的国色天香早已沉默,可没想到还有热闹一把的机会。几个人在路上跑了起来,“哈哈”大笑地从我们身后窜向前去。赛场入口处竟然还有一家烧烤店点着五六盏灯,烟熏火燎的,配合着当时难得的欢闹气氛。

郎木寺也有令人捧场的娱乐节目,吸引着来自各个方向的人群。

漂流过来的表演团借着大街玩耍表演,类似杂耍。

靠近桥头的路口是必选表演场地。音乐无疑很大声,人不用看就知道里三层、外三层地团团围住。

只看人群,我就猜到有东西可看。踮起脚尖,望过几个人头,被围住的是耍杂技的,他们像是一家人,爸爸和女儿。

小女孩儿,大概八、九岁,穿着红色表演服,紧身的那种,头发束成一团,用黄色发花扎在头后。在男子的热烈介绍声中,她从课桌似的桌子后跑出来,爬上另张桌子,站住脚跟,背对一瓶塑料花。

她试探地慢慢向后弯身,身上的骨头根根贴着衣服露出原形。音乐节奏骤然快了起来,女孩儿稳住速度向后继续弯,直到嘴贴近塑料花。开始有笑声从周围爆发了出来。拿麦克的男子趁机走到人堆中,另一只手举着一个铜盘。

他所到之处,人堆马上也散开出一个洞。他继续为身后女孩鼓劲,一边继续往人多的地方扎过去。也有人伸出手放到铜盘上,他马上弯腰致敬。

我只停留了一会儿,看到一些人来了,另一些人走了,可围的堆子还是那么大。孩子们兴趣不减,在选中的最好位置处靠着课桌坐下。

除了这些杂耍之外,也有像样的歌舞表演。

杂耍的人通常是一个拖拉机或者类似大篷车的装来镇上。选好位置,卸下装备,音箱、桌子还有表演者。不用吆喝,人自然便围了上去,舞台就有了。

歌舞表演显得正规多了。表演前,通常有宣传的红色纸单子在街上发。表演场地也相对正式,都在什么院子内。门口贴有大幅海报,人们互相转告“明星来了,明星来了”。

在住的青年旅馆对面的大院子里,听说有表演,还听说其中一个歌星是郎木寺当地人。演出前几个小时,院子里的人就已经挤到了门口、还有门口的公路上。大家都伸长脖子等待。时间过去了,表演没有按时开始,可没有人离开,不断地又有人冲了进去。我的朋友也夹在人群中,一会儿被挤到这边,一会儿被挤到那边,再一会儿就不见了人影。

摩托车塞住了路口。还有摩托车不断地从山上的土路上冲下来,挂着白灰,冲入人群中。

我可没有勇气挤进去,只是站的远远的观望。没见了朋友的人影,我也离开了,上了屋顶。

桌子搬到了外面的露台上。老板和一个朋友坐在那里。我加入她们。大家问好后,各自沉入午后的阳光中。

头顶的天空没有一片云,蓝色径直地一泻而入我的双眼。下面街道上尽是摩托喇叭声、拖拉机“砰砰”声、去夏河汽车的揽客“呜呜”声。奇怪的是,这些对我来说都是安静和惬意。

只一条的街上,临街的台阶上都坐着人。长袍的、长靴的、挂刀的、盘头的、长辫子的、裹头巾的,一个挨一个地坐着。有的和站着的聊天,有的到处张望,有的只是坐着。

这好像也是一种娱乐节目,而且最流行,随时随地受欢迎。满脸皱纹的老婆婆单脚盘坐在地上,旁边放的包袱塞得满满的。羞涩的女孩子把头藏在衣袖里,但还是不小心地露出了红红的脸颊。老爷子们有的干脆敞着胸脯,瞪着街上的行人。带到镇上来的小孩子们安静地坐在旁边,双眼忍不住地四处打望,镇上的孩子则满街疯跑。平时喜好溜达的小黑猪们时务地从街上消失,逃到河边。
每个人这样都可以坐整整一个下午,什么也不干,只是坐着。

寺院法会也是最大节目之一。

每有法会时,都是全家出动。女孩一手搀扶着拄拐棍的老婆婆,一手牵着小孩子。男子通常是皮衣或者崭新的短藏袍、皮裤,还有皮靴,看得出来他们住的地方离郎木寺不近。孩子们高兴地聚集一起,在大经堂前你追我赶。好不容易地将他们拦截了下来,被要求磕头。孩子们马上收起脚步,双膝跪地,必恭必敬地磕下头,直到碰触到地。整个磕头完成后,他们兴奋地又你追我赶起来。
大经堂门前的山头已经没有空地,整一片全是人。其他的自然地在经堂门口围成一个圈,法舞就跳在圈中央。孩子们都坐在圈的最里面,双腿盘着坐好。
大家一直看到法会结束,又是磕头,然后互相搀扶着离开。拖拉机、摩托车、小面包车还有轿车在人群中慢慢往山下挪动。

穿多袋背心的人们,更是大老远跑来,飞机、火车、汽车的颠簸到郎木寺。他们也很喜欢各类节目,因为他们可以抓到构想中的画面。

最近,街上又有了新玩意,类似我们的彩票。立在门口的高音喇叭不间断地喊叫着“23,45,36…”。虽然看不到有人围观,但总有人从门帘子进进出出。我的朋友对这个很感兴趣,可听说他目前为止还没有赢过,他很失望。

Posted by minfreya 19:31 Archived in China Tagged events Comments (0)

Zhuoma

Part I

To go to Tibetan areas is for me like to explore some exotic spots. There are anything different from what I am used to live with, as the sceneries, the people and the way they live.

I was told that once I had been in Tibetan areas, wherever it is, I would go there again and again, addicted to it. I had no idea what it really meant. I looked at her face while she was describing her exciting experience in Hongyuan, one small Tibetan town in Sichuan. Her face was shinning brightly and voice was louder excitedly.

I was too upset not to think about any danger or uncertainties I would encounter on my first time to Tibetan area. I called my friend to ask her idea on slide sand. It was ringing for several minutes but nobody answered.

“There is no big deal if I buy the ticket. They will know better about road condition than I do,” I thought and then bought the first ticket to go to Tibetan area, the unknown place for me.

I cannot remember if I knew anything about Tibet. It seemed that I had not read, listen to or watch a little about Tibet and Tibetan. However I had my first little adventure.

I forgot to be afraid when I just stepped into the bus to Zoige. I enjoyed the whole bus trip instead. When the bus was approaching to Zoige, everything was changed without any telling and expectation. Grassland was spreading out to reach me. It was so soft and I would like to roll down from the top of a little hill. It rained suddenly and then hailstone hit the front glass of the bus. Everyone was screamed at this sudden change. But the most shock happened later after we drove some minutes. Someone started to shout, “the rainbow”, then every of us turned our heads to that direction and I held my breath while staring at it flying over the road. The one after one appeared before us or next to us. The rainbow is quite rare in the cities, especially in Chengdu. No matter whatever the explanation is, because of landform or pollution, there is not much rainbow representing in the city.

It happened once in my memory after the pouring-down rain for one night. Then it was caught by somebody accidentally. The news spread very soon in that morning. It took a long time for people to talk about the rainbow.

Posted by minfreya 01:09 Archived in China Tagged backpacking Comments (0)

Yangtse River Cruise National Holiday 07

sunny 30 °C
View Yangste River Cruise on minfreya's travel map.

This cruise, or even this trip, was picked by Xiaoyu, my husband. I never thought I would go to see the dam or even Changjiang. It is just so familiar to me and then it has never become one choice of mine. But this trip shows that it is not bad to have a try.

We got the chance to see Wuhan. This is completely different city from Chengdu where we come from. We were all impressed by the weather first off when we stepped out the train. It was hot, just like summer. But Chengdu was raining by that time. We were told when we came back from the cruise that it kept raining for the whole holiday.

There are some old buildings from colony time and the first Changjiang Bridge. I was so curious to see so many people playing majiang or poker just next to the security area of the Changjiang Bridge. Nobody cared about if there was any soldier standing so close to them.

We even found out a little beach by the river. A few people were playing there, with weaves and sand. Some couples were sitting on the bank in the sunset, just like us.

There is also one shopping street as the one in Chengdu. It is obviously very popular and modern, because most were young people. I only saw less than 10 persons around mid-ages that day when we were there.

I like to see those ferries to get people moving about in such a giant city. That is really cool.

It was just a short stay in Wuhan for one and half days. And then we went to Yichang to get aboard.

The cruise was nice and cozy. Everyone was kind and friendly. Of course, we met some interesting people too.

She is the only and first one I did not ask for cell phone number while I meeting some new friends from the trips. But I regret now.

She is the tour guide, young and mild. At least I did not see her bad temper. She took all the complaining from her group and still did her best to offer them better and cozy service. She complaint too, but only when we had meals together. She asked us for a picture and I am so glad we did. She is in my memory anyway. I guess she will try to learn English well, because she witnessed how different people treat their guides.

The other one is him. He is able to speak very fluent Germany and this let both of us, me and my husband, jealous of him. That is a so complicated language, but he does. I tried to learn Germany for one year, but gave up eventually because of too much grammar. I even wonder how Germany could organize their sentences before speaking out.

Most of people think Chinese is difficult, like my husband. However, except four tones we don’t have any complicated grammar at all. At this point, Chinese is even easier than English. English has tenses, but Chinese doesn’t have. You may just add one more word to change its time. Does it sound easier?

The other him is the guide from the cruise. He is the guide for everyone. He impressed us by his so-strong American accent. I was almost puffed off by his accent. But he is nice guy and works very hard. He is the guide in suit in daytime and is the host of the shows at nights. It is hard to believe what his trick is to keep so energetic.

The other thing about the cruise is I wanted to know how local people lived after the dam built up. And it is not so difficult. Just looking at the both sides of the boat, there are still some bricked small cottages set along the hill, but there are more new apartment buildings.

The guide told us in his American accent that for the old, who did not want to move out, they would still stay there, but they got help to move higher than now and the younger, they move to those new buildings and start their new lives.

It is still hard to believe that those old cities were just under our feet, in the water.

We stepped onto the bank of Chongqing 3 days later. I want to have this cruise again, but need to remember to bring more summer clothes.

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Posted by minfreya 20:35 Archived in China Tagged cruises Comments (0)

平湖号

Yangste River Cruise, National Holiday 07

sunny 30 °C
View Yangste River Cruise on minfreya's travel map.

从武汉宜昌到重庆,我们乘平湖号一路逆流而上。
平湖号的最后一个晚上,船长送别宴会上,我在餐桌上摆放的卡片里读到了我们餐桌服务员的名字,余会清。卡片是自己做的,她用汉语和英语写了满满的表示感谢的话。
每个餐桌都有固定的一位服务员服务。从第一天早餐开始,她的笑容就在我们的左右。
对她印象的加深源自第一场秀的舞蹈。即使灯光不停地闪,我们还是将她从一群舞者中认了出来,激动地喊道“那是我们的服务员”。
第二天早餐,我们迫不及待地向她求证。
“是我,跳的是藏族舞蹈,”她一边为我们加满果汁一边说,脸上的红晕遮不住舞动的光彩。
只在上船后的第一顿早餐和中餐,她分别询问了我们每个人需要什么样的饮料,之后便记住了大家各自的需要。一落座,她便迎上来,斟满每个杯子。
每次抬头看她时,她总是满脸的笑容。
广东团的导游,在送别晚宴上我也得到了她的名字。她一个字一个字地解释给我们听,吴丽珍。很广东味儿的名字。
“我们拍张照片吧?”她握着杯子看着我们忽然问道,“效果可能不怎么好,我拍照不好看,”边说她边举起了手机。
“靠近点儿”,她用汉语告诉小鱼,左手做着靠拢的手势。我们三个人的头像就印在了她的手机上。
“我有空的时候可以看看照片,想想你们,”她盯着手机的小小屏幕说。
她用广东味的普通话告诉我们说:“真想马上下船,送那批客人走,但又舍不得你们,”眼睛沁在了手里紫红的酒中。
我们和她见面的机会基本都只是吃饭时间。可每到吃饭时,她不是第一个吃完,就是珊珊来迟。看着身旁空碗筷,我四处寻找,她原来在餐厅门口站着,等待她的客人到齐。
何磊,Leo,随船导游,他的美语发音印象最深。除英语外,他还说一些德语和很好的广东话。也许还有其他语言,只是这次我们没有机会听到。
他是船上说话最多的人。
每天六点过,他便用汉语、英语还有德语分别告诉大家早餐已经准备好,请到餐厅就餐;上岸游览前,他用三种语言提醒大家到大厅集合;午餐和晚餐也是由他发布通知,并且亲自在餐厅门口迎接客人;晚上九点开始的表演他是主持,每句话都有三个不同的语言版本,他也表演,跳舞或者唱歌。
白天船上的游览由他负责召集和解说,先汉语,再英语,最后的德语还好有德语翻译,他可以忙里偷闲一阵。
惊讶的是,即使用了三种语言解说,也没有任何人错过任何风景。看看大家拍照的劲儿就清楚,手里的长枪大炮忽前忽后、又上又下,快门响个不停。
他完全没有温度的概念,因为不管热得超过30多度,他还是一套西装、一条领带,一样不少。
他很瘦,吃饭却从不积极,迟到半小时以上或几口搞定他最拿手。 “为什么不多吃点呢?”我还是忍不住地问。
“有什么胃口,一年三百天吃的都是这些,”他盯着面前的盘子里,双手玩着筷子。说完,他扭头看看四周,又站起身来,向其他桌子走去。
他双手撑在客人的椅背后,边说边咧嘴笑。即使我们,也可以听到他讲的笑话,还有他的行程安排解说。
美国团旁,坐的是德国团。他们的全陪是位只讲德语、不会英语的小伙子。我也是在最后一天才知道他的名字,叶闽。
我们从一开始就惊讶于叶闽的德语,流畅的让我嫉妒。
“他肯定在德国待过一段时间,”根据他的翻译反应时间,我们猜测道。
找到了释疑的机会。他端了盘子从他的德国朋友桌上撤下来,坐到了我们桌上。
“还是这桌好,有加菜,”他高兴地提醒我们享受着特殊待遇。
他解答了我们的好奇,“没有啊,我就在老家学的,”“和他们说的都是经常用到的,时间一长,也就不需要考虑语法呀什么的,”他边吃边说,“但遇到新话题时,还是要组织句子,说之前要想想,”他还是没放下筷子。等筷子放下时,他又端了盘子回到他的德国桌上。
“船上的每个人都可以说英语,”广东团年轻的全陪支着头在一旁喃喃道,她把德语翻译也算上了。
除了上岸游览外,平湖号在下午安排了各种讲座和介绍。
书画表演。一个女孩为书画大师做翻译,面前是德国人、美国人还有英国人。
刺绣讲座,还是这个女孩,为自己的技艺和作品翻译,一针一线讲给大家听。
瓶内画讲座,大师自己讲解,并当场演示。
每个讲座大家都很认真,仔细听,小心看,提问题。主讲人也很认真,为大家展示不可思议的技艺。
每次离船上岸游览时,前台的服务员都会站立在门口,微笑着递给每个人印有“平湖号”字样和图片的登船凭证。
“早上好,玩的愉快,”“Good morning,have a good time,”她们微笑着招呼经过身边的每位客人。
除了早餐外,何磊还有他的同事都会站在餐厅门外迎接大家用餐。他们或是说中午好,或者说good evening。
船上最后一个晚上表演,时间交给了客人们。何磊提前一天通知大家准备节目。
英国团出了游戏,说是为了迎接2008年的中国奥运会,我们也蹦了上台参加几十个人的一个游戏。
美国团为大家讲了一个情景小故事。中国人模样的老太太在前讲,后面的背景人群一会儿叹气,一会儿惊讶,一会儿唱歌。故事的结尾是男孩儿和女孩儿到了中国,一群人围成圈,跳了起来。
德国团表演集体舞。领舞者是一对老夫妇,一个75岁,一个73岁。主持人特别介绍他们用了一下午的时间排练。
音乐从他们身体摆动中流出来,船外的江水也安静下来听着。这晚我们已经到了重庆。

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Posted by minfreya 18:40 Archived in China Tagged cruises Comments (1)

25h50m From Chengdu To Beijing By Train, Seat

July 22 to 23, 2007

-17 °C

Having some experience with hard sleeper in train, I guess I could do it better. So I asked for seat this time to go to Beijing.

At the beginning several hours, it was ok. Everyone had been seated luckily.

Some time later some girl was approaching to the woman, who was sitting next to me. She asked for seat since the seat was still empty till that time. Actually it was empty till we got Beijing. I noticed some ones they did not have any seat, but with the same price we paid for seats.

With time on, the people became more and more and everyone of them just stood in the aisle, watching the situation if there was any seat empty.

It became worse with those people standing. The way was all blocked to everywhere, toilets, wash rooms and any place they could put their feet in.

I guess this would be my last time to take seat to somewhere by train. But this experience is not bad at all, at least I see something I have not seen before.

Posted by minfreya 03:24 Archived in China Tagged round_the_world Comments (0)

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