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May 06

迷恋盛香的木箱

之 我的笫一次藏家行,甘肃甘南

26 °C

关于郎木寺的记忆,我将它放在一个木箱里.即使不打开箱子,她的香味也总在每个角落,让迷恋的我刻刻惊喜.


笫一次藏家行


平生第一次拜访一个藏族家庭.很偶然的成行,但却记忆深刻.


叔叔的提议


我匆匆从夏河再次赶回到郎木寺.飞跑着,我再次站在几天前认识的阿客家门口.一把大锁.
我也不知道这次我怎么变得如此聪明,不但问对了人,更找到了朋友的叔叔.在叔叔的帮助下,一天后终于找到了我的朋友,他在手机的另一端.
叔叔找到我的那一刻很有意思.我才从小学校门出来,就听到背后有人在喊.起初没注意,可听到那声音很坚持,再转过头一看,一个人跑在几个人的前面,一手提了个塑料口袋.近了,是叔叔.
他另一只手举着手机,递给我.我也没听清楚他说些什么,接过递来的手机靠近耳朵,一听,是朋友在电话的另一头.自然很激动,很高兴,说话就像唱歌一样,用心和动听.
叔叔接着又对他说了些什么.挂电话后,叔叔提议我到他们家去看看,住几天,并且告诉我在合作汽车站朋友来接我.
我认为这是个不错的主意,决定就按叔叔的安排笫二天到合作汽车站与朋友碰面.


合作见面和挑选礼物


汽车横在合作汽车站站前的大街上.透过车窗,我看到了朋友,他伸长脖子的样子让我一眼就认出来.他也看到了我,一面往车门挤过来.
这是我们几天以后的平生笫二次见面.他抢过我的背包,引我到车站里.
他的家在卓尼的麻路的一个村子.在合作的汽车站,我看到一张地图,基本弄清了我们要走的路线.但至于怎样才能到那是朋友的事情,他忙前忙后地在车站出去进来.
到麻路的汽车还没到,我说应该买些礼物给他全家,所以我们动身到合作城里逛逛.
他对合作很熟悉.我们打了一个出租车准备到城中心.上了车,他就把两元钱扔到了司机台前,然后吐出几个字后,很酷的样子.

他的爷爷,爸爸,妈妈,妹妹,弟弟和媳妇,还有他们的小男孩住在一起,好大的一家人.他抄办了所有的礼物挑选,这让我彻底放轻松.
他很认真地挑选每一件礼物,先为我解释每个人的喜好,然后再讨价还价.藏语完全听不懂,但从最后放入包中的每件礼物来看,他确实是一个砍价的高手.
在市场转了许多圈后,我们收获了满满的一背包回到汽车站.


转车


回到汽车站,他到了窗口一问,才发现今天原定到麻路的汽车到现在还没有到.我们只能耐心等待.
他让我等在候车室,自己一个人跑了出去.十几分钟后我连同背包一起跟着他转移到车站外.
原来,他找到了几个人同路人,打算一起打面的去麻路.如果再等下去,可能赶不上在麻路发车到他们村口的汽车.
找了一辆又一辆的小面包,问了一个又一个师傅,他和其他人显然对要价不满意.这时的我还可以偷懒,只是傻傻站在一旁,而且不知道他们决定了什么,反对了了什么.
我的背包一次上了一辆车,后又被拿下,再放上另一辆,又举下车.终于,我们连同另外几个当地人可以塞到小面包车里啦.
到麻路的沿途,又是一幅美景,不用寻找,她们就在那里,静静等待我的经过、我的到来和我张大嘴的感叹.
汽车虽然突突地往前开,但我的视线和我的思绪就像被那片草地、那不经意的凸起、那修长的小路所钩住一样,总落在后面,久久的不肯挪开.
围绕的当地人看出我是汉族人,和朋友说笑着什么.他坐在副驾驶的位置,也许是有了他的背影,我总盼望着汽车能在什么地方抛锚.
穿过无人区后,汽车停在了拥有十字街道的小镇上.
所幸打了"面的",我们赶上了到他家村口的中巴车.而且我们还有时间可以坐进一个小馆子,要了点馍馍和黄瓜作为午饭.看来有不少人去往那个方向,一会儿就把饭馆前的石梯坐满了.
他吃了几口后,跑到外面.
我也跟着到了外面,他已经没了踪影.
从我的角度看,这个小镇就只有两条短短的互相垂直的街.顺着一条街看去,是迎接我们进入麻路的大山,不是特别地高,但延绵的臂膀夺我的视野而去.它像夏河的山,圆圆鼓着的山包遍山都是,但比夏河的山来得更绿、更舒服;另一条街望去,还是一片山,但远远的.听说那山里有一个大的寺院.
中巴车来了,他过来叫我上车.安排好我们的位置后,他跳下车,不知从哪儿搬来一个大纸箱子,接着又是一箱,再一箱.他把三个箱盒都堆在我们面前.我问他这些是什么,他说这是买回家的蔬菜和水果.
车下有人在往车里丢面粉袋,他连忙下车帮忙往车上送.等到满身面粉后,他坐了下来.

汽车一转,眼前没有了大公路,都是山路.美丽的风景从我的眼中慢慢、起伏地经过,留在了我无限存储量的心上.

几个小时后,我们停在了村口.
跳下车的那刻,我知道我成了世界上最幸福的人.


the little.., Gansu.jpg

停不了的幸福


我在朋友家住了三天,准确的说应该是两个晚上,因为到那里的路程确实太远.
妈妈高兴地来村口接我们,村里的人看到我们也都停下脚步,或是丢下话茬,看着我们,笑着,我也笑着看着他们.没有语言的障碍.
已经是下午6点过,妹妹们都还在田里干活.听说她们今天要做完所有的活儿,明天还要到别人家帮忙,结束后再去一家帮忙,直到整个村子这个时间的农活都做完.
朋友的家是前几年新修的一幢两层的木房子,朋友说修好那时还是村里最大的房子,他得意的告诉我.屋里有一个大大的天井.虽然当时到家的时候天下起了小雨,但天井上的那玻璃将雨水关在外面,任她们怎么敲门也不开.
妈妈抱了一打抱的草放在天井里,然后又是一抱萝卜,再是一抱什么青菜,全部放好后,她拿了小凳子坐下,小小的菜板几乎被掩盖在了各种菜叶子中.她在准备家里几头小猪的各顿饭食.她见我一直看着她,便放下手里的活儿,比划着让我上楼坐.我挪到楼上,坐在木栏杆上,斜靠着木柱子,听着菜汁刀切后流出来的声音.
切好了的菜她一背背地背出去,回来再扫地,收拾天井,很快天井又恢复原样.雨水还是狡猾地溜了进来,在天井的水泥地上摆出各种姿势.
晚上8点过,所有的人都回来了.在地里干活的妹妹们和妈妈一起做晚饭,我是客人,所以可以和爷爷、爸爸坐在沙发上等着上菜.
爸爸的汉语还不错,我们可以聊聊天.爷爷在一旁眯着眼享受其实是他的孙子挑选出来的好酒.
家里最小的成员,小男孩,帅帅的,眼睛黑又大,在整幢屋子跑来跑去,一会儿被爸爸追赶着跑到外面巨大的阳台上,用力在水洼里跳上跳下,他“哈哈”大笑,爸爸也笑着,可也不忘要假装生气的声音.
离开前的那个晚上,我给他们拍照片.妹妹和媳妇穿上了哥哥挑选的衣服.妈妈和听说要拍照而专程赶来的她的妹妹也换上了新衣服,朋友一再仔细地帮妈妈整理衣服.
我坐在铺有美丽图案的炕上,看着她们,那美美的样子和羞涩的红红脸庞,还有身后的墙、壁柜那些美丽背景,我的意识停留在了这刻.是朋友,他拿起相机拍下了这个房间里的每个人、每个动作、每个表情.
弟弟的媳妇拿出了她出嫁时的衣服帮我穿上,腰上的腰带很重,衣服也很重.我弄不明白的是,为什么她们穿起来就那么好看,而我穿出来的样子让我也大吃一惊的难看.
第二天早上四点过,妈妈起来给我做饭,知道我喜欢吃馍馍,还做了四五个带上在路上吃.
每个大人都起床了,小男孩没有被我们的道别声惊醒,希望他还在他的甜甜梦里.
我离开时,天还是黑黑的.我小心地推开重重的木门,还是发出了“吱吱”的声音,妈妈和弟弟的媳妇送我出家门.我告诉妈妈不用送我了,她拉住我的手拍拍,暖暖的,将清晨的寒冷抹去.

朋友说,她要做一只快乐的小羊,走遍郎木寺的大山小河.
我敢肯定,那一定是只快乐而且幸运的小羊.


around the.., Gansu.jpg

the girls ..harvest.jpg

the local ..picture.jpg

Posted by minfreya 00:05 Archived in Events | China Comments (0)

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the eyes, the faces and the smiles

lost myself somewhere

It's possible that I lost myself somewhere.

I was searching for some Chinese teaching abroad. That is only because of the eagerness to escape.

Some clickings later, that scene was approaching me and clear.
That was all the smiles of the Tibetan.

the boys.jpg

the eyes.jpg

the girl.jpg

the mornin.. school.jpg

Posted by minfreya 23:58 Archived in Backpacking | China Comments (0)

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短短的十六个小时火车行

Xi'an in May holiday,2006

sunny 28 °C

想着这次忍受十几个小时的火车是我的一次壮举,惶惶不安之外还有些得意.

激动地在候车室里排上长队,再颤动着双腿追赶横跨铁轨的天桥上的每个人,睁大双眼排除并推断车厢座椅旁的阿拉伯数字,最后,终于发现了十六个小时专属于我的座位.

在几双瞪大眼睛的注视下,我把塞得满满的背包举到座椅顶上的行李架上放好.

火车一点儿一点儿地发出响动,提醒我的火车之旅即将开始.

出发前为打发长长的十多个小时,我准备了书、MP3,还有掌上电脑,但很快就发现我的装备全用不上.

车轮敲打铁轨的声音逐渐成为有节奏的律动.当整个人也随着摇晃起来时,我意识到,原来这声音是如此熟悉.

在震动耳膜般的悸动中,是和朋友在凌晨的车缝处互用蛋糕抹脸,呼喊着"生日快乐";是在熟睡的脸上添眉加胡的意识流创作;是用相机拍下各种睡姿,尔后痛快地大笑一番.

火车将以为遗忘的记忆又投映到眼前,一张放过,一张又紧跟着出来.

我再没有时间计算那晃眼而过的分秒.

我的这个"包厢"到火车开动起来时,一共坐了加我在内的五个女生.

我和旁边的女生一直祈祷着那位靠窗的最好临时变了主意,把“地盘“交给我们打理.从最后到目的地的十几个小时来看,我们的祈祷上天听见了.

其余的四个女生都来自西安,上大学的,或者是才毕业的.她们教我打西安流行的扑克牌.还好有后补的一员大将,我终于抽身出来把自己摊在椅子上与火车声分享美梦.

Posted by minfreya 19:59 Archived in Train Travel | China Comments (0)

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the kids, Langmu Si

Tibetan kids and Chinese Class

The pictures are bringing me back to those sweet moments on the trips to Tibetan areas.
staying wi.. family.jpg

When I started going those places was last summer holiday. The funny one is I was some scared and nervous about the coming trip. I knew little thing about Zoige, Langmu Si and Xiahe, even after searching through internet.
I went to the bus station to buy the next day’s ticket to Zoige. I was so nervous and even I got close to the ticket counter, I was not still ready for that little ticket. I drew out from the waiting queue. I called my friend and wanted she gave me some advices. She was not there. No any suggestion. Then I told myself that it was just to buy one and then to see what would happen. I bought one ticket to Zoige with trembling sound.
I got up early to catch the bus to Zoige in the early morning. Then everything went smoothly and I forgot all the worry and started my first trip to that mysterious land.
the night at Zoige.jpg

Everything was out of my imagination. I could not describe how much I love that land. After 15 days I came back home. When the bus was leaving the Tibetan town far and far, the tears came out. I was staring out of the window and tried to hold and keep those smiles, the sound, the grassland and the mountains in my mind.
There was one voice coming up from my heart. It was I would come back, definitely.


Then I kept my promise to that land, to the kids there.


I went there again and again. The days I spending there become more amazing and unforgettable after every short staying. And it is the same that I always cried while having to say Goodbye, no matter how many time I have been there.
my Tibetan.. lesson.jpg

this Janua..de boys.jpg

I am planning another trip to Langmu Si and I gave myself one week, at least, to teach kids there Chinese.


Happily, there are more and more people caring about the kids there and the school.


I am not sure how many times I will go there in the coming years. But I am always here when it is calling my name.

Posted by minfreya 19:33 Archived in Backpacking | China Comments (0)

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Langmu Si

the blue sky, the mountains, the red rocks, the monasteries, the cloud-alike wine clothes, the kids, the local and the free air

the sky, s..g to me.jpg

Langmu Si has a new name now to me and it is Langmu, my friend got this. I like it, it is lovely and Langmu is truly a cute county.
It is not big but lovely and quietly lying in the hug of the mountains. The little stream is shinning in the sun and brings time flowing away without any notice.
The kids, they are chasing on the mountains, laughing loudly and freely.
It was snowing last night while all of us falling to the sweet dreams. I heard somebody outside shouting excitedly that it snowed. I pushed the door open immediately and was stunned at the white just before me.
I put on my bag and rushed out to greet the cool and fresh air. I stepped on the snow and listened to that cute song I did.
listening ..singing.jpg

snowing.jpg

the lovely kids.jpg

the lovely..be cool.jpg


I have been there several times since last August.
It's still a mystery why I am falling love with this little Tibetan county. And this kind of feeling is even becoming stronger and scrawling to every end of my nerves. Then it even waked me up when I was wandering in the streets in Xi'an.
My friend went to Langmu while I was in Xi'an and she got the chance to teach kids there Chinese three days. Then my soul said goodbye to my body and flew over to the west. The destination was Langmu.
I was walking in the Xi'an streets and lost myself in Langmu.

Posted by minfreya 19:54 Archived in Backpacking | China Comments (0)

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